Mac and Cheese Across America: A regional survey of one of America’s favorite foods

Mac and cheese might be America's most beloved comfort food. Like any great food that’s popular from shore to shore, there are bound to be regional differences in preparation and ingredients. Here at MacAttack, it’s no secret, we draw from the Southern Soul Food tradition. As we mentioned in our article on the Black History of mac and cheese, mac and cheese was introduced to the New World by way of James Hemmings. Hemmings was enslaved by Thomas Jefferson. 

THE BLACK HISTORY OF MAC AND CHEESE

For generations, Jefferson got the credit for "popularizing" the dish. This may be true, but it was Hemmings, the first French-trained chef in the  United States, who originated the US variation of the dish with roots in 18th-century France and even further back in Medieval Italy and another dish in Ancient Rome. 

It's no surprise that the first recipe book in the States to list macaroni and cheese was published in Virginia in 1824. So, from the very beginning of its place in US History, mac and cheese had a dual personality: an American take on French haute cuisine, as well as an early staple of Soul Food and Southern cooking that has been adopted and adapted nation (and world) wide. 

Southern Style: The Gold(en brown) Standard

Southern mac and cheese is what many consider the purest version. If you’ve ever been to a cookout, church dinner or potluck, especially in the South, you’re familiar with “the original.” Now, technically, the “original” American mac and cheese that Hemmings introduced was the roux style that uses a fat, butter and flour mix. The more common Southern homestyle mac and cheese that’s been around since the 1800s uses eggs, sometimes cream as well to bring out the texture that so many know and love. Another common inclusion is, sharp cheddar and paprika, along with other cheeses. Cheese blends can vary, sometimes American or mozarella are mixed with the sharp cheddar which adds stretchiness and makes for a cheese blend that melts well.

CULTURAL ORIGINS OF SOUL FOOD CUISINE

Born from a tradition of making everything from scratch and never skimping on flavor, Southern-style mac and cheese is typically baked in a casserole dish and features multiple types of cheese. The sharp cheddar base is often combined with mild cheddar, Colby or Monterey Jack. The Roux method was the original American version, but from there it was adapted to use eggs in place of the fat, butter and flour. This results in a creamy, custardy texture when baked. Some folks add cream or condensed milk which can also add richness and thickness while also keeping the cheese from separating. Whole milk can be substituted which also adds to the thick, creamy texture. And of course, the sign of a perfect baked mac is going to be the golden brown color and creamy consistency. 

This concludes part 1 on of our series on “Mac Across America” and the latest in our Juneteenth celebration of Soul Food. What region or style would you like to see covered? Make sure to mention in the comments below and don’t forget to share the link!